The trend of sharing fashion (and watches) in men’s and women’s collections is about to continue, says Michael Friedman, head of complications at Audemars Piguet
Michael L. Friedman, who is best known around the world for lectures on horology, leaves no stone unturned when discussing Audemars Piguet’s equal opportunity strategy. For example, AP House in major cities around the world, luxury private lounges for customers and friends of the brand. “What we offer to women at AP House is what we offer to men,” Friedman says. “Now if you were to ask me if we were thinking of a special watch like we did the Royal Oak Platinum Watch with a 39mm Green Dial, I would say that the watch is already made for both men and women. Went!”
The head of complications in this hugely successful family-owned watch business, last year’s Royal Oak Concept highlights the Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon with its contemporary 3D dial and optical illusion. “The demographic was as diverse as the entire collector base of Audemars Piguet. We had buyers, enthusiasts and collectors from the early 20s to the 60s and 70s who acquired the rare watches in the collection. The watch was initially designed with women in mind, but we had a number of men who immediately focused on it. It’s a very healthy response that we would like to see especially on the complications.”
New Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon for Women with multicolored gemstones (left) and graded blue sapphires
Which brings us to the trend of gender-neutral marketing among watch makers today. “I don’t think it’s limited to watchmaking. When we look at men’s and women’s fashion trends, the lines start to blur. We have to remember that wearing a watch or ensemble is ultimately about identity. Always There will be more watches to come that are clearly and unmistakably feminine and that skew far beyond the masculine, but I strongly feel that the collection will continue to share that.”
Read also | Audemars Piguet raises the bar for gem-setting and gender-fluidity
Friedman, the former head of watches at Christie’s, now in his mid-40s, has been particularly busy during the pandemic. Last year was the official opening of the independent brand’s Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet, showcasing more than two centuries of timepieces, with over 300 iconic pieces on display and access to the Grand Complication workshop.
And more recently – last month – the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon collection for women was launched. Six 38.5mm entries, with a rare sight of the flying tourbillon complication at the 6 o’clock position and the coiled mainspring at 11 o’clock, proved that the brand was serious about the compact option now being adopted by men as well. There will be more to come at Dubai Watch Week later this month, we guess. Friedman won’t be able to attend because he has “a baby on the way,” but says it’s going to be a celebration of “the atmosphere, the storytelling, the content and a little futurism.”
What did Jacqueline give AP
- We have incredible watches on exhibition at the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet that explores the Art Deco period. The prosperity of the 1920s gave way to the Great Depression, and in the 1930s there were jump hour watches and creations of much smaller sizes for women, which were surprising. What we saw in the 1940s and 1950s was the development of the incredible bracelet watches, when the miniaturization of micro movements [from the 1920s] were revised. Many of our incredible women’s watches from the 1960s were designed by Gerald Genta, who produced his final design, the Royal Oak, at Audemars Piguet. But if I must highlight one key figure who embodies the story of Audemars Piguet and women, it is Gerald Genta’s successor – Jacqueline Dimmier. He feminized the Royal Oak in 1976, introduced precious materials, introduced complications to the Royal Oak, and worked on the first ultra-thin perpetual calendar.
Edited excerpt from interview:
What were the biggest turning points in the history of women viewing of Andhra Pradesh?
Throughout the history of the Audemars Piguet there have been moments when women’s watches could be particularly highlighted. The clocks with minute repeaters from the 1890s are undoubtedly the centerpiece of the museum today and are highly sought after by collectors when they appear on the market. So from the very beginning, we were focused on women’s watches, with and without complications.
Alongside the first wave of miniaturization of complications, our minute second watches were made specifically for women. Most interestingly, when we look at the beginning of wristwatches in the late 19th century… just before, during and after the First World War, when miniaturization [seen in] Women’s watches became the backbone of men’s wristwatches. The foreign language of wrist watches required small calibers. So the history of women’s watches is central not only to the category but also to the category of wristwatches.
Audemars Piguet Heritage Collection Inv. 25 minute repeater pocket watch (1890) in 18 ct pink gold
What are you learning about women and the watch sizing trend?
when you look today [collectors of] Audemars Piguet at 39mm, many women are gravitating towards those watches, while men are gravitating toward 37mm, which was initially designed with women in mind. I was at a client’s dinner in London a few weeks ago and a man was wearing a new 34mm ceramic watch on his wrist. He used to be a vintage collector who likes very small sizes so we must keep [this] In the mind too. Many women are buying watches throughout collections, both very feminine watches from small size watches to large format watches that we associate with a masculine aesthetic. But an increasing number of men are becoming interested in watches that have far more feminine touch points.
(top) This 1970 wristwatch, equipped with caliber 2430, combines a pioneering oval case with a gross garnet dial, and an 18-karat yellow gold rope twist bracelet, and (bottom) the AP Sapphire Orbe, from 2019 Named after the river. who crosses Le Brassus
What have Royal Oak fans repeatedly requested during the pandemic?
The Royal Oak Supersonry watch was in great demand and we are proud to have designed and introduced that timepiece recently. We have this Titanium version with a gray smoked dial. Also, there is a lot of speculation about how we will celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak next year. [Let me say] That what we are going to present in 2022 is just the beginning!
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