I still remember my first conversation with Ashutosh Narlekar about five years ago. The executive chef of The Park, Chennai had recently moved from Pune and was eager to explore Chennai’s vibrant food scene. We talked about all the diverse dining experiences that each of the city’s traditional neighborhoods have to offer. A year later, he invited me to be a part of the Ramadan Food Walk, which he curated with his team. Almost every major city in South India offers its share of Ramzan specialties for iftar. I have been around the vibrant Charminar area in the old city of Hyderabad. The epicenter of Chennai’s Ramadan food experiences is Triplicane, not far from the MA Chidambaram Cricket Stadium in Chepauk, the den of the Chennai Super Kings.
This year, I along with Chef Ashutosh and his team, along with a group of foodies, took to the streets of Triplicane for our Ramzan culinary journey. All roads in Triplicane lead to the Grand Mosque. It dates back to 1795 and was conceived by Muhammad Ali Walajah who was then the ‘Nawab of Karnataka’. The unique structure has been constructed out of granite and does not use wood or steel in any form. He was also credited with building the Chepauk Palace, one of the first and finest examples of Indo-Saracenic architecture. The streets of Triplicane come alive during the month of Ramadan, and food is a big part of that mix.
1. The Legend of the Nombu Kanji
This is the Badi Masjid which was the first stop of the Ramadan Food Walk. Nombu Kanji is served to all visitors who break their fast at the mosque. One of the local people of the area tells us that it was first made by Muhammad Ali, a Tamil settled in Burma. He then introduced it to his village – Kadayanallur in the 1940s. This nutritious porridge combines broken rice with lentils and chunks of mutton. There are some versions of Nombu Kanji that also add fenugreek (for its cooling properties). Kanji is made mildly spicy so that it is easy on the stomach when you break your daily fast after a long break. The Badi Masjid remains a symbol of communal harmony even today; Many non-Muslims come to the mosque to serve kanji to those who break their fast.
Salty and sour black carrot kanji is very tasty. photo credit: iStock
2. Haleem and Kebab
Haleem, a popular dish during the holy month of Ramadan, traces its origins to Hares, which is mentioned in the Kitab al-Tabikh, a 10th-century cookbook of dishes popular with the kings and caliphs of Baghdad. Is. The dish is popular from Central Asia to the Indian subcontinent, with variations such as kesak in Turkey. Haleem from Hyderabad may be the most famous in India, but the Triplicane version is quite delicious too. This version also gets its subtle flavor from golden fried onions and coriander. Apart from their signature Haleem, Haleem Express in the area also serves a mouth-watering version of Shami Kebab. These kebabs are marinated with mutton, chana dal and spices along with egg before deep frying.
The juicy kebabs are laden with rich Indian spices.
3. A Local Favorite
The numbers could put IPL statisticians at the nearby Chepauk Stadium to shame. In their rotisserie, 50 chickens are prepared daily, for which 200 shawarmas are made daily. Firdaus Cafe has been doing this for 20 years and their Chicken Shawarma and Grilled Chicken are both favourites.
4. Biryani Pit-Stop
No Ramzan Biryani in India is complete without a pit stop. Charminar Biryani is one of the most popular Biryani places in the city. This is not a nice diner. This is a grab-and-go eatery where mutton biryani (made with long-grain, basmati rice) usually takes place. Even before reaching this poky eatery, the smell starts coming from their big pots.
Biryani is steamed rice cooked with chicken, caramelized onions and spices.
5. Sweet Fix
Basha Halwawala is a local legend. The jam market stalls have given rise to clones, but the good thing is, most are locals and auto drivers will point you to the original shop which serves one of the tastiest halwa in Chennai. Jalaluddin, who runs the stall, is proud of its 80-year legacy and his signature Dum Ka Rot. This dish combines semolina with sugar, ghee and khoya to form a unique crust that is formed by charcoal on the lid during the cooking process. Another Ramzan favorite here is Egg Ka Halwa. I would also recommend their Gulab Jamun and Carrot Halwa.
Gulab Jamun is a sweet fried dessert made in India.
6. One for the Road
There’s more than one option for that one drink for the road. The perfect antidote after pounding the streets of Triplicane and witnessing the joy of Ramzan. It is fun to watch almond milk vendors distributing hot cups of the drink in the evenings. If you’re looking to beat the chill, the lassi stalls around Jam Bazaar provide the perfect respite from the Chennai heat before you head home.