India is set to launch its own shoe sizing system called Bha (भ) to join the ranks of global standards such as the ones followed in the U.K., the U.S. and Europe.
The new Indian footwear sizing system is conceived by the Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI), and is sponsored by the Department of Promotion of Industry & Internal Trade (DPIIT) under the Commerce Ministry.
CLRI Director K.J. Sreeram is the brain behind project Bha (from Bharat) that set out to create a sizing system to fit the Indian feet. The CLRI conducted a pan-India survey dividing India into five zones with 1,01,880 samples across 24 parameters from 79 locations.
CLRI Chief Scientist Md Sadiq said, “People from different walks of life from factories to IT and societies to apartments have been included in the survey.”
The survey revealed significant differences in foot measurements across India in terms of age, growth and gender. Under the current sizing system, several Indians face challenges to find footwear with the proper fit, leading to potential injuries as well as increased online returns. Mr. Sadiq said that a significant portion of footwear ordered online gets returned, and a sizing system for Indians is the solution to that.
To tackle size issues, the Bha system will also be wider at its girth denoted by a range of width codes like 4A,3A, 2A catering to diverse foot shapes and sizes, and this will set Bha apart from U.K. and U.S. and European sizes.
“The adoption of advanced technology like In Foot-2 3D foot scanner ensures precise measurements accommodating foot sizes up to 380mm in length and 200mm in width,” Mr. Sadiq added.
Under Bha, different size groups are:
| Code | Denominations | Age (year) |
| I | Infants | 0-1 |
| II | Babies | 1-3 |
| III | Small Children | 4-6 |
| IV | Children | 7-11 |
| V | Girls | 12-13 |
| VI | Boys | 12-14 |
| VII | Women | 14 |
| VIII | Men | 15 |
D. Suresh Kumar, senior scientist and co-project leader of the Indian footwear sizing project, said, “The results of comparing foot lengths and ball girths of males and females in the five zones are plotted to see how the growth patterns change for age. For example, in the west zone, the foot length growth rate for both females and males is similar till the age of 11 and after that, it begins to vary. Likewise, for females, the growth saturates at the age of 14 and for males at the age of 16 across the country. This is the point at which the girls and boys group ends and women and men’s group starts.”
He added, “Under the ongoing sizing system, the average size of a footwear worn by an Indian woman is 4-6 while the same for a man ranges between 5-11.”
Bha reduces 14 sizes into VIII codes, by providing different width options in the same size. In addition, extra allowance will be there in every size.
One major problem with shoes for infants is that their feet grow quickly, making the shoes unwearable. Bha has introduced a solution to this by adding extra allowance in infant footwear. Also, for the last shoe size there will be a 5 mm allowance.
(Data provided by CLRI)
To facilitate Bha sizing to small scale shoemakers, resources for sizing and cutting templates will be provided through self-help groups (SHG). Retail major Metro has committed to using Bha with plans for fit trials before its formal launch. “We hope everyone will get access to Bha size,” Mr. Sadiq concluded.
The implications of Bha are to change the current landscape of the shoe market by creating shoes that are meant to fit Indians in terms of both support and dimensions.
Dr. Annurag Pandey, a physiotherapist from Mumbai, believes that the inclusion of width while curating shoe sizes for Indian feet is a step in the right direction. “The width segregation is a great idea. It will help people with broader feet,” he said. “However, it would be more inclusive to consider people with non-symmetrical feet. Not all feet are the perfect size and shape.”
Currently, the biggest problem faced by Indians is looking for a fit inbetween the available sizes. A shoe shop owner from Adyar, Chennai, said, “Most people find the solution to this problem by looking for alternative brands.” A worker from another shoe shop the same area noted that people with sizes that don’t fit can usually order special sizes.
Comparing his experience with Indian and foreign customers, Aslam, a shop worker from Aalent Indian leather boutique, Chennai, said that both have specific brands that fit their feet. “Foreigners tend to have foreign brands that specifically fit their feet. In the same way, certain brands fit Indian feet. Both can find their perfect fit with a little trial and error.”
Sultan, the shopkeeper of Look Shoe Shop, Chennai, believes that unlike branded shoes such as Metro or Bata, local brands often have sizing discrepancies. He suggested that an Indian sizing system would be good to help Indian customers to find a reliable fit.
The future of Bha lies in trials and further research, as the team behind it expects it to come into force by 2025. The team is also looking to expand their research by widening its demographic sample to include farmers, armed forces, indigenous people, working women, and people with diabetes.
Mr. Sadiq said, “These will be manufactured in India for the domestic market. Whether the shoe price is ₹100 or ₹1,000, what we need is a shoe with the perfect fit.”