When you are invited to the Payal Singhal show, it is always two showcases. One on the ramp, with models, and the other front row with celebrities and fashion editors, many of whom arrive dressed head-to-toe in Payal’s signature print as a show of support. Some of these influencers and editors alike are gifted, but many are not – a testament to the brand Payal has created. Easy, fun, affordably priced, and meant to be worn without strict styling rules. His clothes quickly and without much advertisement became the uniform of a select community.
Then why did the jewelery collaboration take so long? Especially since she’s previously collaborated with indie beauty brand Ranaut on packaging, shoes with Fizzy Goblet and Pao, fusion wear with The Label Life as well as Indya, and a line of wallpapers with Marshall .
Sangeeta Boochra [Jaipur-based heritage jewellery] The brand contacted us via email in 2020. By the time we actually met and started designing, our contract was over,” says the Mumbai-based designer. Like many other pandemic schemes, from planning to implementation, Rekha took two years. It finally launched in stores and online earlier this month.
precious like a pearl
‘Javer’ is a 50-piece capsule collection. It’s Payal’s muted-with-a-hint-of-Tropicana color aesthetic inspired in parts by her own archives. “The most valuable piece of jewelery in my possession is the heirloom Kundan And the pearl necklace and earrings were given to me by both my grandmothers. They have somehow become the template for my taste in jewellery,” said Payal.
The brand describes Jawaar as the coming together of the luxurious elements of rustic bohemia and Indian heritage. The capsule includes rings, earrings and stackable necklaces. It is offered as an alternative investment to everyday dress jewellery.
While Payal regulars may find an instant connect, the line offers a youthful approach to Sangeeta Boochra’s brand and customers. “During the Mughal era, gold inlay work was done especially on gems like mergaz or emeralds. We have tried to achieve the quality of gold and finish with silver, crafted by master craftsmen and goldsmiths of India.”
The painstaking work of up to four artisans could be required to complete one ring. While the work is complex and historically inspired, the final form is youthful and and current, Check out the famous Awadh fish studded with fake tiger claws and micro pearls. The pieces would be a fine addition to a work wardrobe, but are a better option for destination weddings, where expensive family pieces are always a hassle.
“Like my clothes, I don’t believe in selling people a look. I hope each buyer makes the jewelery their own. Style it their way. For me, that’s true brand loyalty,” says Payal. While She designed and selected the gems for each of the 50 designs, with Sangeeta Boochra’s team providing the technical know-how and raw materials.
Established in 1897 as a silver shop by Sangeetha’s family, the brand’s collection includes rare pieces made by artisans from Afghanistan and Sri Lanka. Payal had access to these archives for inspiration and experimentation. “We found a sketch of an original Kundan The Defeat of Work from Afghanistan and it was a fascinating deep dive into history and how it connects us all.
how to develop a brand
Collaboration is successful when each party brings its own strengths to the table instead of trying to reinvent the wheel on its own. Payal really understands this and hence, has been able to diversify its portfolio of partnerships so much. “There is a misconception in the creative industries that designers have to know and do everything in-house. Designing, marketing and selling are completely different jobs, and a brand does well when it collaborates on key points. Which is why the current market sweep of designers by large corporations is so exciting,” concludes Payal.