From Jamun to Pudina Masala Kulfi, the Kulfi menu is expanding with vigor and creativity
From Jamun to Pudina Masala Kulfi, the Kulfi menu is expanding with vigor and creativity
Kulfi is one of the best things to have for summers. And there is nothing like fruit kulfis flavored with pomegranate, jamun and phalsa or fruits like frozen mangoes and oranges with kulfis.
If you have been to Kucha Patiram in Old Delhi, then you must have tasted the delicious Kulfi of Kuremal Mohan Lal. This shop is 115 years old and the glorious tradition of fruit filled Kulfi is being carried on by the younger generation.
Kuremal has opened a branch in Bengali Market, where you get to taste Kulfi with all kinds of Jamun. Another branch of the family – Kuremal (Mahavir Prasad) Kulfiwale – is also known for fruit kulfis in Preet Vihar. An owner says that their mango stuffed kulfi has always been a favourite.
Kulfi for Delhi is the same as chenna poda for Odisha or sandesh for Bengal. One of the most popular kulfi shops of all time was Roshan Di Kulfi in Karol Bagh. And earlier also, there were traveling Kulfiwalas. The old-fashioned people of Delhi remember how sweets – essentially made of condensed milk and sugar – were served on sal leaves. Kulfiwalas took to the streets of Delhi, carrying the sweets in an earthen pot, its hollow bottom covered with salty snow to keep the temperature low. There was a time when it was kept in an empty cigarette box with a stick sticking over it.
But kulfi, which is often served with falooda, has deteriorated over the years. Now almost every dessert shop or restaurant lists them on the menu. There are many varieties of kale in the shelled market, including frozen fruit. For example, they take a mango, remove its seeds, fill it with kulfi and freeze it. When you cut the fruits, the creamy and icy kulfi comes out in chunks. Moet’s in Defense Colony is known for its classic Kesar-Pistachio Kulfi. There was a time when it used to serve its kulfi from a shack outside the restaurant. Moet’s also has sugar-free kulfi. These frozen treats usually cost between Rs 140 and Rs 170 at most places.
Delightful sweets at Kuremal Mohan Lal Kulfi Wale at Chavadi Bazaar, Photo: VV Krishnan / The Hindu | photo credit: Krishnan VV
On a hot day earlier this week, I tried three Kuremal kulfis – flavored with jamun, mango and phalsa respectively. I loved them for three main reasons. One, they were a delightfully cold dessert to eat on a hot day. Two, the fruit added zing and tang to the dessert, making sure it wasn’t overly sweet. For example, the mango one had a fruity but somewhat pungent taste. And three, they looked fabulous – the sunlight yellow, the lilac (phalsa gives an incredible color to sherbet and sweets) and the lavender of the berries.
The Kulfi menu is expanding with advertising creativity in taste and colour. Also on the list of Bengali Market Kuremal are Mint Masala Kulfi and Fruit Cream Kulfi.
Bring out all the flavors – and let cool.
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