What is Tamil Nadu Cuisine? It is impossible to define it in one sentence or with a binary response. Like every region of India, Tamil Nadu’s culinary tradition is centuries old. But not every dish has a timeless heritage, which, what we define today as Tamil cuisine, can actually take shape in restaurants in the state capital and other culinary destinations such as Madurai. There is no better place to explore Tamil Nadu’s vast culinary repertoire than Chennai. It’s impossible to prepare an exhaustive list of recipes, but our list is a good starting point:
Kari Dosai: The three-tiered Dosai at the Konar Mess in Madurai is a local legend. A thick dosa, an omelet and a layer of minced mutton. This is not a dosai that you can take lightly. Order a repeat at your own risk and wash it down with Bovonto, Madurai’s own soft drink. It is now available at their Chennai outlet.
Try it at Konar Kadai, Whanels Road, Egmore
Dindigul Biryani: Dindigul’s biryani gets its unique flavor from local lamb, short grain (seerga samba) rice and water sources near the city. The Chennai version comes somewhat close. Thalappakatti Biryani is one of the flag bearers of Dindigul-style biryani. The restaurant started in Dindigul and took its name from the founder’s idea to wear a turban (thalappakatti).
Try it at Dindigul Thalappakatti, 11th Avenue, Ashok Nagar
Vada Curry: A quintessential Chennai delicacy, this is a mixture of coarse lentils in a delicious gravy. It is almost the same as the popular masala vada. One of the theories surrounding the origin of vada curry is that the dish was made with leftover vada bits that are tossed in the gravy. Vada curry was invented in a restaurant before it became a popular Sunday breakfast option in many homes. It is commonly served with idli, idiyappam, set dosa in many homes and restaurants. I enjoy digging into the bowl with a spoon.
Try it near Mari Hotel, Saidapet or Motel Mamalla, East Coast Road, Mamallapuram
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Vada Curry
Idiyappam found: Idiyappam or string hopper may taste the same everywhere, but there is a notable difference in accompaniment. Some reputed restaurants in Chennai serve Ripe Pepper Paya with Mutton Trotters. Samco’s is one such restaurant that hasn’t changed its recipe for pepper pie since the 1960s. It is like nihari meat cooked from the legs of a lamb. Some meat shops in north Chennai supply smoked pieces of lamb shanks specifically for paya.
Try it at Samco Hotel, Aldams Road or Zoom Zoom Hotel, Second Line Beach, Paris
Sakkarai (Sweet) Pongal: Pongal is an integral part of the menu on Thirunal or Pongal day which is the most important day of Pongal festival. This harvest festival is the biggest in the festival calendar of the state. Sakkarai is the Tamil word for sugar, but oddly enough Sakkarai Pongal is usually cooked with jaggery, not sugar. Melting of jaggery is the main process in this recipe, which is mixed with a mixture of rice and green gram. There is also a hint of camphor which gives a unique taste to the dish.
Try it at a Murugan Idli shop (T Nagar or Besant Nagar)
Onion Uthappam: For beginners, Uthappam may be similar to a dosa, but they are not exactly the same. Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, this is almost where dosa meets idli and is a popular evening snack or dinner that can be cooked up in a jiffy. It tastes even better with the slightly sour dosa batter. Onion Uttapam is the most popular version and is cooked with chopped onions and green chillies with the reassuring flavor of gingelly (sesame) oil.
Try it at Murugan Idli shop (Besant Nagar) or at Chennai airport ID (Domestic Departure)
Onion Uttapam
Pisces Kuzambu: There is a legend that the chefs of the Velu Military Hotel still talk. Their founder (Velu Ambalam) had to catch a glimpse of their signature meen kuzhambu (fish gravy) every day when he visited the restaurant (at least two buildings away). If he didn’t, he’d sneak into the kitchen, dump the gravy he’d cooked for the day, roll up his sleeves, and make Pisces Kujumbu from scratch. This fish gravy is deeply rooted in Tamil popular culture and households across the state. It tastes equally delicious with rice and with idli or dosa.
Try it at Velu Military Hotel, Aldams Road
Adhirasam: rThe records of this popular sweet date back to the reign of the formidable Chola dynasty, about a thousand years ago. This deep fried dessert is essentially a combination of two ingredients – jaggery and rice flour; The taste is enhanced by the quality of the oil (Gingli oil or groundnut oil). The cooking process is laborious and requires an equal amount of skill and experience.
Try it at Grand Sweets Adyar or Luscious Mandaveli
Filter Coffee: Ask any true blue Chennait what they miss the most when they are away from home, you are very likely to hear filter coffee. It is not just a drink that most Chennaiites wake up to, it is a feeling. Chennai’s version of filter coffee is very similar to the state’s famous Kumbakonam degree coffee. Most restaurants brew this drip-down coffee in large percolators and serve it in tumblers and dors (cups). Strong coffee with condensed milk, which can coat your tongue the most, is always refreshing.
Try it at Sangeeta Adyar or Mummy’s Mess Mylapore
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filter coffee
Pallipalayam Chicken: One of the most famous chicken dishes of Tamil Nadu and a dish synonymous with the Kongunad region of western Tamil Nadu. The name of the dish is derived from a small town near Erode, where this unique spice blend – Pallipalayam Chicken Powder, has been perfected. It elevates this dish of chicken nuggets cooked with coconut shavings. While some homes and restaurants have shifted to broiler chicken, the traditional recipe for Pallipalayam chicken includes free-range chicken.
Try it at Kovai Alankar Mess, Anna Nagar or Junior Kuppanna Nungambakkam
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