Jewelry director Mauro Di Roberto on the Indian market, the brand’s design language, and why the million-dollar market is important
Rome-based jewelery company Bulgari recently unveiled its first India-exclusive product offering with brand ambassador Priyanka Chopra Jonas. 18k gold necklace is a mangalsutra With five discs, set with black onyx and pavé diamonds. With this, the brand, which first entered India in 2014 when single brand retail was allowed, is fulfilling its ambitious intentions for a market where traditional jewellery dominates.
in an exclusive interview with The Hindu WeekendBulgari’s 42-year-old veteran jewelery director Mauro Di Roberto explains why the brand is betting big on India, which has long been a source of important gems for the company. In fact, the big gem on the 93-carat emerald necklace sported by actor Zendaya at the recent Venice Film Festival was ordered in Jaipur.
Now, the brand hopes to attract the well-heeled Indian, who doesn’t mind paying global prices for sumptuous designs. As Roberto says, Bulgari’s creative director Lucia Silvestri (and self-proclaimed “Gem Hunter”) likes India. So it is appropriate that they try to make inroads here. Edited excerpt from interview:
Mauro Di Roberto, Managing Director – Jewelery Business Unit, Bulgaria
a. what was the idea behind starting mangalsutra As for Bulgari’s first India inspired and exclusive offering?
This project is very dear to us because it encapsulates our DNA [while] Trying to integrate the Indian aspects of the product. NS mangalsutra Important meaning for Indian woman [because it symbolises] Sacred bond between two persons. There is also a value behind the gesture of receiving a gift for a wedding. we believe [ours] a. a contemporary way of looking at mangalsutra
There has been some criticism over the choice of mangalsutra, which some see as the first product of India as a patriarchal symbol.
Bulgari has always claimed female independence. We believe that the meaning is contemporary, where a jewel can be bought by a woman. When we look at our creativity, we can agree that it is jewelery that has to be bought by the person wearing it, not necessarily given as a gift.
This is a North Indian design. What was taken into account for the design, especially with our different religions and cultures?
the concept of having a disc was [the origins of which are antique coins] With Bulgari logo and beads, which are more integrated with Indian culture. The same work was done to evaluate a product that could work for the local community.
You said it took years to come up with the design.
It took three years. We usually do not make specialized products for specific countries. It was an important project, [and it was] It is not easy. We need to be able to present the local experience, but also personalize it. For us, when we put a logo on a product, it’s an important form of personalization, but also that whoever wears that jewel enjoys a certain kind of freedom and independence.
Priyanka Chopra Jonas is the brand ambassador and with this offering, there is a greater focus on the Indian market.
We know the huge potential of India as a market. But we also know the difficulties in capturing the market. The fact that India comes from the historical and cultural value in jewellery. The reality is that today many Indians shop outside the country. And because Indians have a significant tradition of jewellery, they know how to value the artists, the craftsmanship, the value of the gems, the designs. and young [generation] A lot is exposed through social media. So we are very bullish on the Indian market.
Serpenti, from Bulgari’s Magnifica collection, worn by Zendaya at the 2021 Venice Film Festival. photo Credit: Antonio Barella
In June, Bulgari unveiled Magnifica, a stunning collection of 350 splendid jewels. It contained 60 gems worth over €1 million. Does it reflect confidence in the future?
In various parts of the world, especially after the pandemic, there has been a significant increase in jewellery. I am talking since September 2020. We’re not traveling as much as we did, so there must be other ways to spend. are we bullish? it is us. But when we talk of high jewellery, we are talking about jewelry which is unique. When it comes to one-of-a-kind pieces, our creativity begins when Lucia [Silvestri] finds a unique stone; That’s when the idea of making a product comes. like a spinal necklace or serpenti [from the Magnifica collection] Worn by Zendaya. You won’t have any customers for all of these products, but you do have the opportunity to create a piece of jewelry that is unique and will live on in history.
Indian men have been wearing jewelery for centuries. Do you envision introducing more unisex or gender fluid offerings?
We generally need to consider a broader market. Jewelry can be worn by different types of people. Our creativity is such that it allows us to play beyond women. B.zero1 or serpenti worn by men and transgenders [people]. We do not believe that we need to change our jewelery or revise our strategy as we believe that the designs and colors cater to different segments of the customers.
Two years ago, the house regained an iconic necklace that became the inspiration for the Baroco necklace.
It is extremely strategic to look back on our heritage. The creativity we will come up with tomorrow is an inspiration for our history, which, 130 years old, will be much better.
Watch Gayatri Rangachari Shah in conversation with Mauro Di Roberto over the weekend
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