The small Saurashtraian community in Madurai has used the lockdown to revive heritage cuisine, many of which form the foundation of Tamil Nadu’s most popular cuisine.
The streets and markets in Madurai’s temple town come alive in the evening with pushcart vendors selling crisps vadiso fried spinach or powdered mulmurungai Powdered leaves with cumin. In addition, there are Sozzy AppamsSweet Chhota Maida Poori, filled with Rava Kesari, and full of nutrients Paruthipal Made from the milk of cotton seeds mixed with rice flour, cardamom, dry ginger and palm sugar. These dishes, which are an integral part of the city’s street food culture, are a staple in the Saurashtraian households of South India. Yet there is much more to be discovered, especially during the festive season and special celebrations, when Saurashtrian families come together to prepare and share traditional dishes handed down over generations.
Sensing an opportunity to revive heritage cuisine during the pandemic, members of the Saurashtra community planned food festivals to remind members about what defines their food, as well as spread their food to the rest of the city. Culture demonstrated. The recently held first, three-day food festival in the temple city of Madurai revives some of the time-honored cuisines.
The Saurashtraian dish Polte Chano which is now commonly known as Mutton Kutu. photo Credit: special arrangement
According to Chef Arvind GN, who curated the food festival, it is believed that Saurashtrians brought idli to South India. rice and mix urad Lentils, grinded together and steamed to form cakes, are said to Iddada Gujarat can be traced back to the 10th to 12th centuries. The rasam is said to have originated in 16th century Madurai, made by Saurashtris, who called it Pulichari.
“Traditional Saurashtraian menus for weddings and important celebrations feature select dishes; We follow the ingredients and preparation style taught by our ancestors,” says Aravinth, whose family is known for expertise in Saurashtraian cuisine and has been into private catering for the past six decades.
“The taste, texture and ingredients of our cuisine have changed under the influence of Tamil culture; Even the names changed,” says CR Venkatesh, president of Saurashtra Small Business Association. For example tamarind rice, popular like Puliodharai Now it was called ambad bhati; Same Ambani Is Spade Kuzambu, Limbu Pongalo Commonly known as Aslemon Rice, while spicy agar koilo evolved from dosa light dhowra thida. Original Saurashtian tomato rice has a strong cinnamon flavor while their Sakrai Pongal is prepared in Paruthipal (milk of cotton seeds).
Saurashtraian Cuisine Original Ambad Bhaat which we now know as Tamarind Rice or Puliodharai. photo Credit: special arrangement
“Our ingredients and food are unique in taste, yet nowhere in the world is there a good restaurant offering authentic Saurashtraian cuisine,” said Yogesh Thirukonda, who conceived the revival initiative.
It is estimated that there are around 6,00,000 Saurashtrians throughout Tamil Nadu, and Madurai is a major center with 180,000 people. History records that the silk thread traders of Gujarat were brought in as royal weavers by the Nayak kings of the south in the mid-17th century.
“The three major waves of migration occurred in Madurai, Thanjavur and Salem. When people move in, they bring not only their own food but memories of home,” Venkatesh says, adding that heritage cuisine and food and food available at the new location are often mixed to shape the immigrant experience, while their Affect the new home.
The community is now eager to bring out a book on Saurashtrian cuisine compiling traditional recipes, says Thirukonda because “food is as much about memories as it is about celebration, culture, spices and names that need to be documented.” “.
Saurashtrian specialty
sekki bhatho: Special occasion dish made from three types of milk (cotton seed extract, coconut and cow’s milk) mixed with ghee and jaggery in rice. As per tradition, rice is served hot to mothers who are in the fifth month of pregnancy. Another special variety of rice is kalakandu sadam (sugar candy or Egyptian Rice)
Pour Milk: A winter delicious dumpling, made by grinding into rice powder and rolled into small balls and sweetened with sugar and added to hot boiling milk with cardamom powder.
Saurashtraian dish Pankra Paan Bhairi, a crispy puri made from five types of greens. photo Credit: special arrangement
Pankra Paan Bhairi: DiDeep Fried Hari Poori Contains Five Different Kinds of Healthy kerai (greens) including pankarpani (small-leafed type of spinach), Mulu Murungai (prickly drumstick), Thudhuvalai (a prickly green hub), thipilik (Indian long pepper leaves) and palanquin (regular spinach) ground with black pepper and stuffed into rice patties that are fried in a mixture of refined sunflower oil, gingelly and castor oil and served with chenna bhurko (Fried chickpea powder).
Saurashtraian Cuisine: The famous Alagar Koil Spicy Dosa of Madurai which is believed to have originated from the Saurashtraian Mild Dhowra Dheido. photo Credit: special arrangement
lightly wash Spiced dosa made by grinding ginger, black pepper, green chili, cumin, curry and coriander leaves and turmeric powder and added to regular dosa batter. Crepes are made by simply drizzling gingelly oil and served hot. Alla (ginger) and drain (Coconut chutney.
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