Mint Explainer: The brouhaha behind India’s masala mixes and their contamination

Time and again, food safety authorities from different countries have labelled certain Indian spice mixes as contaminated and unsafe for human consumption. The latest instance involves Hong Kong’s Centre for Food Safety and packaged spice mixes of two producers—MDH and Everest. 

In the course of routine testing of samples under its food surveillance programme, the regulator found the presence of ethylene oxide in three spice mixes of MDH and one of Everest exceeded the permissible limit. On 5 April, the CFS announced that it had ordered a recall of those products and a ban on further sale, and advised against consumption of those products. Meanwhile, it continues to investigate the products for violation of quality standards.

Subsequently, on 18 April, citing the Hong Kong regulator’s orders, the Singapore Food Agency also directed a recall of a spice mix produced by Everest. In June 2023, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) had ordered a recall of spice mixes of Everest and Maggi Masala-ae-Magic as it found those contaminated with Salmonella bacteria. A few years earlier, in September 2019, a batch of MDH’s spice mix had been recalled for the same reason.

Mint explains what the regulatory action will mean for the two spice makers, and India’s spice industry in general.

How do the regulators determine if products are contaminated?

Most food safety regulators carry out random testing of samples collected from stores. The Hong Kong regulator carries out these tests routinely, publishes reports, and sends out alerts when it finds levels of certain chemicals exceeding permissible limits applicable in the territory. Such alerts and bans have been imposed on imports from Indonesia, Japan, Switzerland, Taiwan and the US this year.

Similarly, the US FDA issues public health alerts and recall orders when it finds food items to be contaminated.

The food safety regulators of all countries set out permissible limits of traces of various chemicals, such as pesticides, in food items. These apply equally to domestic produce as well as imports.

Doesn’t India have any standards for exporters to follow?

For spices, the commerce ministry’s Spices Board requires all exports to undergo mandatory sampling and testing to check for adherence to the standards of the destination country. The Spices Board regularly updates the permitted maximum residual limit of chemicals and toxins in food items. 

The board last updated its advisory on ethylene oxide on 23 March 2023, when it relaxed the limit that could be found in the spices while keeping it within the limits prescribed by the European Union.

How do chemicals such as ethylene oxide affect consumers?

Ethylene oxide is used in small quantities as a pesticide and sterilising agent, though it is classified as a Group-1 carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer of the World Health Organisation. Therefore, even a tiny amount of residue in food is enough for it to be dangerous to human health.

Regular exposure to ethylene oxide, particularly to those working in spices processing units, can cause lymphoma and leukaemia. It can also cause stomach and breast cancer.

Salmonella bacteria cause gastrointestinal illnesses and salmonellosis. Extreme cases of salmonellosis can be fatal.

What could be the impact for manufacturers that fail to meet prescribed standards?

The extent of the impact will vary from product to product. Often, the consumer will shift to the alternatives available in the market. In the case of spice mixes banned in Hong Kong and Singapore, other brands are available in the market. 

When Maggi noodles were banned for a few months after some tests found excessive traces of lead and the presence of MSG in them, consumers shifted to other brands, benefitting manufacturers such as Patanjali, ITC and Wai Wai. When Maggi returned to the market, it regained its market.

MDH and Everest may suffer a small dent in their sales revenue due to the ban in Hong Kong and Singapore. If consumers shun other products of the two companies, the loss of revenue will be greater. However, their biggest market is India, and the actions of regulators overseas are unlikely to affect demand in the domestic market.

But the two companies and the importing agents may be subjected to hefty fines for selling products that didn’t meet the standards set by the territories. The importing agents have already suffered some losses due to the recall.