The Line x Gemfields Kundal Ruby Earrings | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
The pieces that the line makes are addition and subtraction. Each element is thought through. Talking to Natasha Khurrana, the designer behind the New Delhi-based jewelery label, it is clear that she associates herself with a direct manner of speaking and a personal style that veers towards clean lines and chic minimalism. We met recently during the launch of her new collection – Songbirds, which is in collaboration with UK-based mining major, Gemfields. The recent media preview at Mumbai’s Soho House, mainly featured a collection of earrings, necklaces and chokers was displayed along a wall while Natasha thought about answering questions from the attendees.
During a later interview, she shared how the collection is based on Indian traditions. “Most of the photographs in this collection have personal relevance – such as taveez, Ear chain, Chandbali, Or Ladhi, The collection’s name Songbirds is derived from the fact that birds have timeless, distinctive songs that are much like the country’s timeless jewelry designs.
Natasha Khurana | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Speaking about the collaboration, Natasha says, “My instinct was to take India to the world. For centuries we have been the cutting, polishing and manufacturing center of the world and we have a vast canon of our own distinctive jewelery styles. I wanted to take that legacy, and try it my own way, with my customary ease.
Apart from the country, there is also an element of personal history, with the designer reminiscing, “I remember my mother in her pearl chokers paired with sarees in the 90s, and that memory really inspired this collaboration. Inspired a piece, Gita, which I named after him.” She says from Gemfields to Natasha only Manik and Panne were to be made heroes. “Gems always lead the way for me. And especially with colored gems, it’s innate, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. When I saw Gemfields’ pear-shaped rubies, for example, I knew was that they were to be hung away from the skin, so that light could pass, that they were going to be Chandbali.,
The Line x Gemfields Conful Emerald Earrings | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Other than this ChandbaliThe piece includes a delicate earlobesThe ear-shaped find set in center with Zambian emeralds and rose-cut diamonds is decorative without being ostentatious. Akoya pearl and emerald chokers both are equally beautiful. It is the earrings though, that are most inherently Indian with the recurring chakra as a design element – either in the form of a hoop that is adorned with colorful stone details or a crescent design inspired by the Chand Bali.
Since starting The Line in 2015, Natasha has worked with local artisans from cutting to polishing and setting the stones. For songbirds, she says, “Pirohi, or the art of threading gems, is an Indian specialty that is sadly not as popular as it used to be. This is the first time I’ve tried it in my work. And the simplest looking things are often the most confusing. There’s a lot of balance in the string.”
The Line x Gemfields Jhoomar Emerald Earrings | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
For Natasha, her designs are led by the stones she finds, as she says, “Gems always lead the way for me, and especially with colored gems.” She looks forward to seeing where Stone will take her designs in the future.
The jewelry collection can be bought from Gemfields.com