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Every Bengali I know is sentimental. He is as passionate about his fish as he is of a good argument. I have had some of the best debates with Bengalis, Kosha to Kobita, Rasgulla to Re, Biryani to Bangladesh and Bhappa Aloo to Bhappi Lahiri. Be it music, religion, culture and food, it is a passion that is sincere and expansive. And all this intense emotion and enthusiasm explodes during the four days of worship.
I have been to Kolkata at least four times on these auspicious days of worship, and it seems the city is on pace. The streets turn into a psychedelic carnival, a deep dive into the colorful and curious world filled with ‘Dhunachi’ in the air, fully themed decorations, outrageously immersive colours, and ‘dhaaks’ and drum beats. There are pandals everywhere, accessible and within easy reach of every devotee. Apart from the fervor of the aarti, which reverberates in the streets and the sky, with the glow of Maa Durga, at its splendid and splendid best, evening and night are also time for some original Bengali hard rock. The youth band, with lead drummers in dread-locks and bass in beads, belts out modern Bengali fusion. And the streets have the best street food, most of which are available and often taste good only during festivals. It is indeed four days of turbulent adventure and joy.
I usually go directly from North Kolkata to Baghbazar and Shyambazar. The Bagbazar Durga Puja Pandal is one of the oldest pujas in Kolkata and is more than 100 years old. As you walk through the streets lined with old prehistoric buildings, you get a feel for a culture that slowly breathes, though temporarily rejuvenated, by festival lights. Here old and young people gather around, sip tea and smoke cigarettes. Walk the narrow streets and you will find shops serving traditional street food. Ancient people selling Kolkata cuisine, such as Kabiraji cutlets and Mughlai parathas. Kabiraji cutlet is a fish, chicken, or mutton cutlet wrapped in a lacy, crispy mesh of whipped egg batter. The cutlets are dipped in the egg batter and dipped in hot oil, and while it is still frying, the remaining batter is poured over the cutlets, turning them all the time. Sometimes, a bit more quick-witted cooks, use their fingers and wrists to drop long strands of egg batter onto the cutlets while frying. It is magical to watch this hand dance as a crispy lace emerges around the spicy, minced chicken, fish or mutton. Eat it with soft hot paratha.
while the rest India During Navratri either fasting or following a strict vegetarian diet, a diet that often also eliminates the use of onions and garlic, Bengalis feast on a range of the finest meat and fish. There are a few theories as to why this is so. One is that Goddess Durga, which is celebrated during Navratri, is invoked after defeating the evil Mahishasura, with an ‘bhog’ of fish and sacrificial meat. Another theory is that Maa Durga is not worshiped as a goddess as much as she is worshiped. And in that case, how could it be possible to welcome your mother home, if your favorite dishes were not on the table. So, I think if it’s good for the goddess, it’s good for us. Who am I to argue, I will just enjoy the festivities and be blessed.
Fried things always make great street food. Like kachoris and pakodas in the north, telbhaja from Kolkata is one of the most popular street snacks in the east. Bagbazar Street is home to the best telebhajas or bhajjis in Kolkata. People stand here in the morning for Kochuris and later in the day for Radhaballavis. Kochuri is a kachori, and like kachori, it also comes with a variety of stuffings. Matar Shutir Kochuri or Koraishutir Kochuri, often available in the colder months, is a spicy green-pea stuffed kachori. Hingar Kochuri is a spicy and spicy stuffed kachori with lots of asafoetida or hing.
There is also potolar chops made of gourd or parwal. I prefer crumb fried chops than fried batter, especially if it is made with raw banana florets. Mochar chops, fried pieces of raw banana florets mixed with a spicy potato mash.
Another dish is dhokar dalana or deep-fried spiced lentil cake made with chana dal, which is traditionally fried and then simmered without garlic and onion gravy. Interestingly, it is called Dhokar, which means ‘betrayal’. This is when the family is tricked into believing that the lentil cake flavored with a gravy of spices, coconut, peanuts, etc. is actually meat.
But in Radhaballabhi the king of all bhajans. These are soft pooris, literally luchi, stuffed with a spicy lentil filling. They are just sinful and wonderful.
Stalls selling puchkas are a dime a dozen, and without getting into full-on serious Bengali debate over what is better, golgappas, pani puris, or puchkas, I’ll head to ghugni. Ghugni is white peas that are boiled to a silky pulp, gently marinated, and garnished with fresh coriander, raw onions, and chunks of coconut. A bit like Ragda Pettis’ Ragda, but more developed, I’d say.
How can the Chinese community not be under-represented when it comes to Kolkata street food? So, you can find momos at most places. The outside of almost every pandal is served with chowmein and chili chicken, both steamed and fried and stuffed with fish, chicken, pork and vegetables.
But my all-time favorite is the Mutton Kathi Roll, or the Kolkata Roll. The succulent pieces of mutton marinated in spices, and cooked over charcoal, smoky and slightly burnt, sliced onions, lime and green chillies, are wrapped in a slightly sweet but crispy and flaky paratha called fried in eggs.
Kunal Vijaykar is a food writer based in Mumbai. He tweets @kunalvijayakar and can be followed on Instagram @kunalvijayakar. What is the name of his YouTube channel? The views expressed in this article are those of the author and do not represent the stand of this publication.
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