Whenever I think of going out for lunch or coffee, Bandra West seems to come to my mind. Not only are there some old favorites like Salt Water Cafe, Eat Around the Corner, Birdsong, Ray’s Cafe and Pizzeria, Smoke House Deli, and The Bagel Shop, there are cafes and restaurants that have stood the test of time, and some great new ones Locations are opening almost every week.
Bandra (W) is a suburb most importantly a fusion of traditional Indian culture and modern influences from around the world, which is clearly reflected in its diverse culinary scene. This is where expats and international visitors head, especially when it comes to food thanks to its overall permissive, open-minded cosmopolitan atmosphere. And this vibrant avant-garde movement is quite clearly represented by eateries, restaurants and cafes.
Bandra (W) is also known for its family-run bakeries. Hersch Bakery, established in 1860, is known for well-priced freshly baked breads, cakes, and pastries, including popular home-style burgers, cutlets, chicken mayonnaise rolls, and puffs. Andorra Bakery, established in 1952, where people line up for savory and sweet baked goods, wholesome sandwiches, ready-to-eat grilled chicken, biryani and East Indian specialties like sorpotel and fugia. It’s impossible to compete with the Candies’ chicken sandwiches, chutney sandwiches, mini-meals, and baked goods. But the world is still wide open and two hard core South Mumbai, well-born, blue-blooded and haute monde establishments have spread their wings in Bandra (W) and are already in this well-established market. I am making current.
Let me start with renowned Mumbai-based restaurateur Aditi Duggar, co-founder of Mumbai’s most critically acclaimed content-driven restaurant, Masque. During the lockdown, he worked on an idea with love and opened an offbeat bakery called TwentySeven Bakehouse near Lakshmi Mills.
Passionately imbibing bakery techniques from Israel and all her other travels, Aditi Duggar launched a menu with baskets filled with fresh loaves, and a collection of sweet as well as savory viennoiseries. All round wonder. The same TwentySeven Bakehouse opened its doors in Bandra (West) a few months ago. A white and blue façade filled with upbeat breakfasts greeted me as I hesitantly walked into the small space. I was impressed by the glass shelves filled with inviting breads, croissants, tarts, penne au chocolat, eclairs, savory as well as sweet. And there was bread in abundance. Seeded sourdough loaf, banh-meel bread, milk and honey burger buns, milk and honey loaf, brioche loaf, even challah – a braided bread of Ashkenazi Jewish origin, eaten on ceremonial occasions such as Shabbat.
Lots and lots of cookies, like alfajores (crumbly butter cookies sandwiched with dulce de leche) and coin aman (buttery laminated pastry with a caramelized crust) and cheesy savory crusty stuff like, mushroom melts, cheesy Goan chorizo Croissant, Potato Rosemary Galette, Bakehouse Tapenade and Cream Cheese Twists, a wonderful Roasted Tomato and Grilled Veg Tart, and Sweet Bird’s Eye Chili and Emmental Cheese Swirls, and my favorite, the simple, but not so humble Ham and Cheese Croissant. With one hand full of goodies and the always smiling and welcoming Aditi Duggar on the other, I walked out very pleased with myself.
Another Bandra (W) eatery that opened just seven days back, feels like it’s been there forever. Chapel Road, inside Runwar Village, Bandra, between Varoda Road and Veronica Road, belongs to Veronica.
Opened by who, I say Bombay Boys, are the boys who run Bombay Canteen, O Pedro and Bombay Sweet Shop. This trio of Yash Bhanage, Sameer Seth and the brilliant chef Hussain Shahzad. The space itself used to be an old traditional bakery called St Jude’s, and the new psychedelic shop-front, a brightly colored art mural created by Portuguese street artist Acarolion, still prominently bears the name. The interiors are tiled and light steams from a large skylight. Two gleaming coffee machines brew freshly brewed cups filled with rich, artisanal coffee aromas. The menu is reminiscent of some of the sandwiches that Bombay Canteen launched during the pandemic, but is good enough to excite any hot bread lover. They have sandwiches, salads, kombucha on tap, coffee, wine, and beer.
I start at Kolkata’s Tyretta market, impressing hot steaming breakfast sausages and aged cheese momos with Sichuan hot sauce at Veronica’s. Then comes a plate of open, bacon-filled Hangover Tacos (scrambled eggs, bacon, salsa, and tortilla) on the table. Couldn’t live without a sandwich so I ordered the humble Italian job, a mortadella, smoked ham and buffalo mozzarella with heaps of warm flavor atop toasted ciabatta. And finally, a tribute to the East Indian community of Bandra. Mrs. Mabel’s Pumpkin Bagel Roasted pumpkin, cream cheese, arugula, pickled onions and spicy sambal, topped with East Indian Bottle Masala. On that note I head to the small but awesomely efficient kitchen to say goodbye to Chef Hussain who is going crazy with KOT.
Smiling and bubbly as ever, he asked to watch me make a quick Smash burger. Two juicy, double short rib and marrow patties, smothered on the grill, mixed with onion rings. Batty browns with onions, slapping bacon and cheddar slices that all get stuck between two soft milk curds and it’s good to go. And me too, go.
Kunal Vijaykar is a food writer based in Mumbai. He tweets @kunalvijayakar and can be followed on Instagram @kunalvijayakar. The name of his YouTube channel is Khaane Mein Kya Hai. The views expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not represent the stand of this publication.
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