I’ve just come back from Geneva’s recently concluded Watches & Wonders 2023, which has made a full return after a lockdown-induced break – and it’s clear the luxe watch industry is exploring new avenues of artistic expression.
The numbers exceeded expectations, registering 43,000 visitors compared to 22,000 last year and 23,000 in 2019 (before Covid-19). This year, the fair saw the participation of 49 luxury brands, including Patek Philippe, Rolex, LVMH Group, Richemont Group and several independents. The two open-to-the-public days, Saturday and Sunday, were completely sold out, indicating a resurgence of interest in the luxury.
In this first piece at this year’s edition of the largest watch fair in the world, I wanted to focus on brands that stood out for their creativity, exclusivity, craftsmanship and storytelling. The world is going through a new phase of life post the Covid break and some brands clearly wanted to push the boundaries of traditional designs and concepts.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 | Photo Credit: Ulises Freslein
Rolex Day-Date 36
No one could have expected that Rolex would get this creative with their expressions the way they did with one of their icons, the Day-Date 36. No wonder his delightful jigsaw puzzle dial was the main act of the event.
By displaying a new emotion each day, the watch effortlessly matches the wearer’s changing mood. Available in three contexts in 18 ct yellow, white and Everose gold, these watches display inspirational words such as ‘Happy’, ‘Gratitude’, ‘Eternity’, ‘Peace’ in the arc-shaped aperture at 12 o’clock. ‘faith Love and Hope’. The window at 3 o’clock shows a special emoji for each day of the month instead of the traditional date.
Not one to replace craftsmanship with just fun elements, the brand uses Champlev enameling to bring to life a jigsaw puzzle with turquoise blue, red, fuchsia, orange, green and yellow on the dial, adding depth and intensity adds up. The hours are marked by 10 baguette-cut sapphires in six different colors matching the main color of the dial – turquoise blue on the 18ct yellow gold and 18ct white gold versions, and orange on the 18ct Everose gold.
The new Day-Date 36 is powered by Rolex’s robust caliber 3255 and comes with the Superlative Chronometer certification, ensuring outstanding performance on the wrist.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
Born in 1931 in the polo fields of Rajasthan, the Rendero was one of the first wristwatches developed specifically for the sport, designed to keep it safe when worn during a game of polo.
In 2023, the new Renderso Tribute Chronograph pays homage to the roots of the Renderso with the sport complication of a chronograph. Taking inspiration from the first Rossio chronograph from 1996, the new caliber 860 combines a chronograph with a two-sided display of the time.
The front dial, with its baton hour markers, dauphine hands and peripherals, ticks all the markings of the Versace Tribute line code. chemin de fer minute track. Aside from the presence of chronograph pushers on either side of the curved crown, the understated elegance of the sunray-brushed surface gives no hint of mechanical complication. The dial is fully skeletonized, the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève as a symbol of the highest quality finish, and the chronograph seconds and minute tracks are highlighted in black to maximize legibility.
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 860, a fully integrated hand-wound chronograph movement is conceived and made in the Vallee de Joux. Beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, the Caliber 860 incorporates a column wheel chronograph with a horizontal clutch instead of a regular vertical clutch to reduce the overall thickness of the movement. The movement does the intricate work of displaying the hours and minutes on both the front and reverse dials.
The two straps supplied with each watch (canvas and leather) are designed by renowned Argentinian polo bootmaker Casa Fagliano, the epitome of sporty sophistication while connecting the Rossio to its roots in the world of polo.
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
IWC Schaffhausen has introduced the Ingenieur Automatic 40 in keeping with the principle of focusing on one collection each year. There are four references in the collection – three in stainless steel and one in titanium.
The Ingenieur Automatic 40 is powered by IWC-manufactured 32111 caliber which has an astonishing 120 hours of power reserve. All new models have soft iron inner cases to protect the movements from magnetic fields and are water resistant to 10 bar.
Of the three models of the Ingenieur Automatic 40 in stainless steel, the aqua dial steals the show. It features rhodium-plated hands and applique, an integrated stainless steel bracelet with polished center links, and a butterfly folding clasp. The case, bezel and bracelet are finished using a combination of polished and satin-finish surfaces. Furthermore, a redesigned crown protection further underlines the sporty character of the watch.
cartier begnoir watch
cartier begnoir
Since its creation in 1912, the Baignoire watch has seen many incarnations. In a new alignment of proportions this year, the dial and its signature Roman numerals are crowned with a rich gold ribbon.
Cartier explored the Beignoire’s signature oval dial and moved it to a bezel designed to slip as close to the wrist as possible, pushing the watch to be almost a piece of jewellery. Whether in rose gold, yellow gold, or fully faceted, the new Bagnoir celebrates purity of line, precision of form, precise proportion and precious detail.
Panerai Radiomir
Panerai Radiomir PAM01349
For over a century the Panerai family has been manufacturing precision instruments to accompany the Italian military in their adventures. In the early 20th century, when the Officine Panerai was commissioned by the Royal Italian Navy to supply high-precision instruments, it created the patented Radiomir in 1916, a radium-based substance used to launch torpedoes. Allows for self-luminous sights. Night and for firing weapons in general’. Thus the legend of Radiomir became part of many revolutionary missions of the Italian Navy.
In 2023, Panerai introduces a California dial for the first time, crafted at 45mm, not the traditional 47mm, while its green color makes the watch a collector’s piece. Panerai California Dial features alternating Roman and Arabic numerals, bar index and a minute track. The hours 10, 11, 1, and 2 are marked with Roman numerals, while 4, 5, 7, and 8 are marked with Arabic numerals, resulting in a dial as distinctive as it is rare. The case is set in Brunito Easteel TM – the watch in a distinctively antiqued form appeals to collectors looking for authenticity and well-stored timepieces.